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Défilés on line

Raf Simons

… at Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie de La Villette


By Denyse Beaulieu / Pictures : Vincent Lappartient

In the white light projected by twenty blank video monitors, Raf Simons’ Cold Wave warriors strutted in modern, sharp silhouettes, occasionally softened by a delicately woven Jacquard knit. Wide, pleat-waist trousers cinched with corset belts on white shirts, horse-rider leggings under tight, post-punk overcoats: Raf Simons’ man has grown from adolescence into maturity, without a whiff of nostalgia, although the designer was celebrating his ten years in fashion. “All Shadows and Deliverance, History of My World”, said the program: but paradoxically, this title seemed to point to the writing of a future history rather than a recapitulation of the past. It is a dark story, starring the epitome of virile elegance, the military uniform: Raf Simons armours his 21st century men for coming fights, with the radical intelligence which marks him as one of the edgiest designers of his time.

Press : Kuki de SALVERTES / TOTEM