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Défilés on line Ann Demeulemeester …at the Musée Bourdelle Jut when Ann Demeulemeester is beginning turning to softer lines in her women’s collection – confer her last neo-Victorian presentation in March – it seems only logical that she would launch her first full-fledged menswear line. Her romantic rockers have always borrowed their motorcycle boots, vests, jackets and trousers from men, and the translation from one gender to another is smooth: Demeulemeester’s arty androgynous style suits boys. Colours – washed out blues and reds – wind their way into her black and white palette; tee-shirts are customized with abstract brush-strokes, sneakers splashed with Pollock-like drippings. Sarouals and ruched clam-diggers, turned-up jacket sleeves revealing shirt cuffs, crumpled cottons and linens trace a long-lined, fluid silhouette. Masculine, feminine? Borders oscillate but never fade away completely. Denyse Beaulieu Press : Michèle Montagne
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