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Défilés on line Femme Eté 2006 Haider Ackermann Sublime, exquisite, diaphanous, daring… Haider Ackerman’s collection, one of the most beautiful this reporter has seen during the Paris fashion week, calls for well-deserved superlatives with its dreamlike beauty. Haughty, delicate models were sent out through the arcades of the Ecole de Médecine’s cloister, drenched in a white opalescent light amid swirling gusts of smoke, wearing long chiffon capes in dawn-like cloudy tints… Ackerman’s urban nomads play on sports and ethnic codes: laced leather knee-length breeches manage to conjure both sneaker and corset laces; sarouals, parkas and combat pants are mellowed into extreme femininity; gladiator sandals trade in their ribbons for fishermen’s nets, echoed in haphazard macramé leggings. Giant spiders have woven ink-drenched webs on the back of vests. The unexpected master stroke of a long, draped jersey gown in the palest sand pink makes one long to see the designer develop his evening wear. Denyse Beaulieu Press : Michèle Montagne
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