Défilés on line

Femme Eté 2006

Hermès
…Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts

As seasons go by, Jean-Paul Gaultier has been easing himself, with consummate intelligence and subtle humour (a horsewhip shaped umbrella handle, an “H” logo in Chantilly lace), into the tradition of one of the last, purely French luxury houses: exquisitely classical and not indexed to the whims of fashion. Gaultier goes far beyond a referential play on Hermès house codes – the “carré”, the Kelly bag, the Hermès orange and red, saddlery, Motsch hats – by integrating the brand’s vocabulary into his own unequalled mastery as a tailor and a colourist. His rich, nearly comestible chestnut browns veering on maroon exalt whites and oranges – no one can “do” brown better than Gaultier. His latest collection bridges the gap with his predecessor Martin Margiela’s easy, sober silhouettes. As if to underline Gaultier’s focus on clothing, the iconic Hermès bags are extremely discreet: micro Kelly bags, clutches done in silk matching the outfits… The only saddlery touch is in the slim belts cinching Greek goddess gowns or the bare waists of bikini-clad models. Utterly perfect.

Denyse Beaulieu
Photos : Vincent Lappartient

Press : Ina Delcourt, Sophie Seibel-Traonouïl