Défilés on line Dries van Noten ...at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts Denyse Beaulieu / Pictures : Vincent Lappartient Dries’ travellers often seem, from one season to the other, like they’ve escaped some enigmatic – Kafkaian, even – Mittel-Europa revolution, by throwing a sailor’s jacket, a brocade kimono or a Persian lamb capelet on the shoulders, with pant cuffs rolled up or a swinging dirndl, knotting a fur scarf around their neck. The sliding retro references – is it the 30’s, the 50’s? -- intensify this impression, though anchored by a purely Dries palette: bronze, paprika, teal, chocolate, muted browns and greens verging on black. After his elegiac, 10th year in fashion show last season, the Antwerp designer demonstrates that his poetic and generous vision keeps on refining itself, without needing any special effects. Press : Sandrine Serres |
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