Portrait
Diane Pernet
By Denyse Beaulieu
Photos : Vincent Lappartient
« I don’t wear this outfit to get noticed. Really. I wear
it to please myself.”
In a husky voice so close to a whisper that, while leaning to hear it,
you smell the church incense whiff of her signature perfume Avignon
(from the Comme des Garçons Incense Series), Diane Pernet tells
of a recent art show opening where she was rudely questioned about her
appearance by another woman. As though her enigmatic trademark style
– high-rise Pompadour with a veil, cat’s eye Alain Mikli
sunglasses, ankle-length skirt and wedge sandals, invariably black,
punctuated with scarlet lipstick – were a breach of the Parisian
social contract, a shocking excess of narcissism.
Yet, when speaking with Diane Pernet, you realize that her hieratic
style – a blend of Goya’s “Caprichos”, Sicilian
widow, ancient Greek tragedian and geisha under the Black Rain –
may be more of a retreat from the world, in order to see it better.
Her blog, “Diane, a Shaded View on Fashion”, reveals a sharp,
curious and generous outlook on contemporary creations, including fashion,
but not exclusively. From Paris to Madrid and Bangkok to Hyères,
from fashion shows to festivals and arty parties, Diane Pernet, with
her digital camera, gleans pictures and stories from an aesthetic tribe
including Boudicca’s designing duo, the team of Three As Four,
jewellery designer/ Spike Lee actor Waris or Japanese freelance journalist
Take Hirakawa (who, with his rock star style, may be one of the chicest
men in the Paris fashion scene)… From post to post, these images
form a family album of sorts, both tender and cosmopolitan. The site’s
archive dispel some of the mystery surrounding the “dame en noir”:
film studies, a first marriage and premature .widowhood, a flourishing
career as a designer in New York in the 80’s/90’s –
stylised and glamorous creations photographed by the likes of Mario
Testino. These are the few relics of a bygone past. “When I left
New York, I put everything away in a storeroom in Chelsea », explains
Diane Pernet. “Years went by, I stopped paying… I don’t
know what became of my things.”